In 1874, Anna Ploner wrote a page of history by becoming the first woman to climb the Cima Grande of the Three Peaks of Lavaredo, one of the most iconic peaks in the Dolomites.
She was the daughter of Georg Ploner, owner of the Schluderbach Inn, the starting point for hikes to the Three Peaks and Monte Cristallo. She grew up witnessing many first ascents, watching male rope teams conquer her home mountains. At only 21, Anna took up the challenge presented to her by the young mountain guide Michel Innerkoflere, and in doing so earned the title of First Woman Climber of the Cima Grande.
Today, 150 years later, at LaMunt, we want to celebrate that extraordinary milestone by following in Anna Ploner's footsteps with a rope team of LaMunt women. The rope team is composed of LaMunt Crew member Micol Dolci and Elena Iacopelli of Team LaMunt, led by mountain guide Erwin Steiner.
That achievement made by Anna Ploner is not only a historic achievement, but a symbol of what it means to face the mountains with passion, determination and curiosity. Today, those same qualities live on in women who, like Micol Dolci, embrace the mountains with the same intensity. Here is her first-hand story of our recent celebratory ascent of Cima Grande.
On the right Anna Ploner
Elena & Micol on their way to the top of Cima Grande
Cima Grande, Cima Ovest and Cima Piccola: better known as the Tre Cime of Lavaredo in the Unesco World Heritage Dolomites Natural Park.
The best-known side is to the north, in South Tyrol territory: these are three immense vertical walls that appear impossible to climb. Many mountaineers have tried to climb them, the most famous, the most talented, because on that side they are really difficult to tackle. Then there is the south side in Belluno territory, technically easier, well at least in some cases because there are so many routes to climb.
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo have an important sentimental value for me, since I was a child I used to look at them in admiration as I made my way to the many huts in the Natural Park; I observed them from all sides, walked around them, photographed them from nearby peaks: Mount Paterno, Mount Piana, Cadini di Misurina... I dreamed of queens and princesses, of spells and goblins, of the fairy Samblana who picked up their cries for the absence of vegetation on their peaks, took in her hands a small shining star laid it among the rocks of the highest of the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and transformed it into a marvelous starry flower with velvety petals as white as snow... Those staggering heights have always been magical to me.
Oh, how I dreamed of reaching the top.
And so it was that one beautiful day, as in all fairy tales come true, I had the chance to make it happen and I did it thanks to a group of magical women: the LaMunt Team - who found the formula to fulfill every female need in terms of mountain clothing. The occasion had to be a symbol of women's emancipation: the anniversary of the first female ascent of the Cima Grande. In September 1874, guides Michel Innerkofler and Luigi Orsolina with 21-year-old Anna Ploner made the ascent of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo along the south face, the so-called Normal route, and the young Ploner was thus the first female climber reaching the peak.
150 years later, in September 2024, two more women will ascend the same peak by the same route, yours truly (Micol Dolci) and Elena Iacopelli of the LaMunt team, to celebrate Anna and all women who face daily climbs and roughness with hard work, determination, concentration, attention to self and other, adaptability, team spirit and confidence. These are all necessary ingredients for ascents to any peak because the mountains are a wonderful school of life as well. Climbing the Cima Grande via the Normal route is a dream come true and the reward was incredible despite the fatigue and waking up at dawn. The journey was priceless, starting with the colors in the sky as the sun came up to the summit of more than 600 meters of development. The Cima Grande opened the door for us and it was a succession of peaks, ledges, couloirs, glimpses--a magical, fairy world. The difficulty is not technical for those used to climbing, but certainly the environment is harsh: rocks, cliffs, exposure, walls and sections to climb alternating with walking sections, the route is quite articulated and complex, a real “vertical labyrinth” where quite a few rope teams often cross each other in the maze of canals and ledges. Easy to get lost as the route is not well marked.
The team was perfect, Erwin, mythical guide, was the lead climber and Elena and I alternated in the most challenging sections, otherwise in the short rope. From each terrace, from each ledge a different angle of the surrounding peaks, the home mountains for me, those of Cadore and Cortina....
And finally the summit and a great thrill: La Grande is the highest of the Three Peaks, the one in between, between the West and the Small. Majestic, vertical, dizzying from the north and beautiful. Up there, with us a few scattered groups of mountaineers and a not-at-all-intimidated bird, undisputed master of the summit. Finally, I admired from above all the mountain ranges I have always frequented: Sorapiss, Cadini, Cristallo, Popera, Croda dei Toni, Cima Undici, Paterno,... how wonderful are the Dolomites!
An owed and heartfelt dedication was written on the summit book to all the magical girls who accompanied us up there, the LaMunt team and LaMunt crew first but it was also a symbolic ascent for all the women in the world and last but not least a tribute to my father, the one who first introduced me to those heights... In the end on that summit there were many of us.
Then the descent, which in climbing is always the riskiest part: we opted to abseil as much as possible. Which, I won't deny, pleased me: climbing down would have been more difficult for me and perhaps more dangerous with all the slippery scree typical of those places. 13 abseils and we quite were fast. By 2:30 p.m. we were back at the car, happy to celebrate the achievement with a beer and a slice of cake, a tradition after every ascent.
Celebrations as simple and sincere as the mountains that surround us are.
